Mechanical Keyboard FAQ

Every 5 minutes. Each row in the stock table shows a "last checked" timestamp so you know exactly how fresh the data is. We check as frequently as vendor terms of service allow — going faster risks getting blocked, which would mean worse data for everyone. During major restocks on popular boards, our monitoring may lag by one check interval before an alert fires. The timestamp is always accurate to within 5 minutes.

In Stock — Available for immediate purchase. We confirmed inventory within the last check window.

Low Stock — Limited inventory detected. Typically fewer than 10 units remain. Could sell out between checks — act fast.

Out of Stock — Not available at the vendor's current listing. Set an alert to be notified the moment it changes.

Group Buy — In an active or announced group buy. Not available for direct purchase — join the GB during its open window to receive a unit later.

Stock can sell out between our 5-minute checks, especially during restock surges on popular boards. The timestamp on each row tells you exactly when we last verified the status. If a board sold out in the gap between our checks, we'll catch it on the next cycle and update. Always confirm availability directly with the vendor before purchasing. Our data is best-effort intelligence — not a real-time guarantee. We err toward optimism because showing "In Stock" when sold out is less harmful than missing a real restock due to overly conservative data.

Yes. Submit a request with the keyboard name, vendor URL, and why it should be tracked. We prioritize additions by community interest, search volume, and vendor scrapability. Most requested boards are added within 48–72 hours. We track 342+ keyboards across Keychron, Glorious, Mode Designs, Drop, ZSA, KBDFans, Cannonkeys, Novelkeys, and more. If your board is from a niche vendor or small IC run, we'll assess feasibility and reply.

We actively monitor: Keychron, Glorious, Drop, ZSA (Moonlander, Voyager, ErgoDox EZ), Mode Designs, Cannonkeys, Novelkeys, KBDFans, Ilumkb, Omnitype, Swagkeys, Vortexgear, and Amazon (for boards with direct listings). We're expanding to EU vendors (Candykeys, MyKeyboard, Oblotzky Industries) in Q3 2026. Let us know if a vendor is missing — we assess new ones quarterly.

Click the 🔔 bell icon next to any keyboard or submit your email in the alert sign-up form. When our system detects a status change from Out of Stock to In Stock, we fire an alert email within 5 minutes of detection. The email includes the keyboard name, current price, vendor link, and a direct "Buy Now" link. Alerts are item-specific — you only receive notifications for keyboards you've explicitly tracked. We never send promotional emails or share your address with vendors.

Completely free, with no plans to charge. KeebTracker is monetized through display advertising — your attention pays for the service, not your wallet. If we ever add a paid tier (e.g., sub-60-second alerts), free alerts will always remain. Any model change would come with at least 90 days' notice to registered users.

Every alert email includes a one-click unsubscribe link at the bottom — no confirmation screens, no dark patterns. You can unsubscribe from a specific keyboard or all alerts at once. Or contact us with your email and we'll remove it within 24 hours. We comply with CAN-SPAM and process all unsubscribes immediately.

Switch alerts are available for in-stock switches in our switch database. Keycap alerts for group buy drops are on our roadmap — we're building the keycap GB tracker first, with email alerts to follow. In the meantime, r/mechmarket and GeekHack are the best sources for keycap restock news. You can also request we add a specific keycap set to our watch list.

A Group Buy is a limited-time community-funded pre-order — one of the primary ways the keyboard hobby produces unique products that wouldn't be economical to mass-manufacture. A designer creates a concept, opens a GB during a fixed window (usually 2–4 weeks), and buyers pay upfront. Once the GB closes, the designer submits the final unit count to the manufacturer and enters production. From payment to delivery typically takes 6–18 months. The upside: lower prices than retail, and many GB boards never become retail products — it's the only way to get them.

An IC is a pre-GB survey phase where a designer shares renders and a proposed price to gauge community interest before committing to production. ICs require no payment and carry no obligation — they're pure market research. A strong IC response gives the designer confidence to launch a full GB. ICs that don't generate enough interest are usually shelved or redesigned. KeebTracker tracks major ICs so you can follow projects before they officially go live.

Our Group Buy Tracker uses five phases:

• Interest Check — Designer gathering feedback, no purchase possible yet
• Live — GB is open, you can purchase right now
• Production — GB closed, units being manufactured (shows % complete where available)
• Shipping — Units leaving the manufacturer toward proxies/vendors
• Closed — GB fully fulfilled; no longer trackable for new purchases

We update phases manually within 24 hours of major announcements.

It depends entirely on the runner and platform. Most reputable runners on GeekHack or vendor-run GBs (Cannonkeys, Novelkeys, Omnitype) have clear refund policies if a GB fails. However, GBs are unregulated pre-orders — you're paying in advance for a product that doesn't exist yet. Due diligence is essential: check the runner's history, read their refund policy, and prefer vendor-proxied GBs over direct-to-designer purchases. KeebTracker does not mediate GB disputes and cannot issue refunds — always deal directly with the GB runner or vendor.

A proxy is a regional vendor that handles local distribution, payment, and customer support for a GB. Instead of a designer shipping to 500 individual buyers across 40 countries, they ship one large batch to a North American proxy (Cannonkeys, Novelkeys), a European proxy (Candykeys), and an Oceania proxy (Daily Clack). The proxy handles last-mile distribution. This reduces international shipping costs, simplifies customs, and gives buyers a local point of contact. Always join a GB through the proxy for your region — never buy through the wrong region's proxy, as that complicates warranty and support.

Linear — Smooth keystroke from top to bottom. No tactile bump, no click. Preferred for gaming and fast typists. Best: Gateron Yellow, Tangerine V2, Durock L7, Oil Kings, Alpaca V2.

Tactile — A physical bump mid-stroke at the actuation point with no click sound. The bump confirms the keypress, allowing you to release before bottoming out. Best: Boba U4 (silent), Boba U4T, Holy Panda X, Durock T1.

Clicky — A tactile bump plus an audible click. Loud — not suitable for shared spaces. Best: Kailh Box White, Kailh Box Jade, Cherry MX Blue.

See our full switch types guide for deep-dive comparisons.

Actuation force is the grams of pressure required to register a keypress at the actuation point (not the same as bottom-out force, which is pressing the key all the way down). Most beginners find 45g comfortable. Get a switch tester ($12–20) before committing to 90 switches for a full board.

Silent switches have internal dampening mechanisms that cushion the upstroke and downstroke. They're significantly quieter than standard switches — but not completely silent. You'll still hear the sound of keycaps landing on the plate and PCB. For near-silent typing, combine: silent switches + gasket-mount case + thick PBT keycaps + foam mods + a desk mat. Best silents: Boba U4 (tactile), Gazzew U4T Thocky (tactile), Gateron Silent Red (linear), Outemu Silent Sky. Topre keyboards like the HHKB Professional Hybrid are also naturally quieter.

Not required, but strongly recommended for linears — it's the biggest single quality upgrade you can make. Lubing removes factory scratchiness and transforms the sound from plasticky to smooth and deep.

• Linears: Krytox 205g0 — applied to stem legs, stem rails, and inside the housing
• Tactile: Krytox 205g0 or Tribosys 3203 — everywhere except the stem legs (lubing legs kills the bump)
• Clicky: Generally don't lube — muffles the click mechanism
• Springs: Krytox 105 oil (bag-lube method) to reduce spring ping

Lubing 90 switches takes 45–90 minutes the first time. Some keyboards come factory-lubed (Gateron Yellow Pro, Oil Kings) — check before buying lube.

Switch films are thin plastic or foam pieces (0.1–0.3mm) that fit between the top and bottom housing halves of a switch. They reduce wobble and improve sound consistency — typically making switches slightly tighter and less poppy. Most useful for switches with loose housing tolerances (many Gateron and some Cherry). Switches with tight tolerances (Boba U4/U4T, Durock/JWK) benefit less. Popular options: Deskeys Switch Films, TX Films. Each film takes about 10 seconds to install.

Hall Effect switches use magnetic sensors rather than physical contacts to register keypresses. Benefits: theoretically infinite lifespan (no contact wear), variable actuation point adjustable in software (0.1mm–4.0mm), rapid trigger capability (re-register a key before it returns to rest — major advantage in competitive gaming), and analog input support. The Geon Raptor HE and Wooting keyboards with Lekker switches are the most popular options. Tradeoff: higher cost and less availability than traditional switches.

Keycap profile refers to the shape, height, and angle of keycaps across rows. Each profile feels and sounds distinct. Switching from a laptop? Cherry or OEM will feel most natural. See our keycap profiles guide for full comparisons.

ABS — Lighter plastic, better for RGB shine-through, double-shot legends. Downside: develops a greasy shine from finger oils over 6–18 months. Sound: higher-pitched, clacky. GMK sets are ABS — premium despite the shining due to color accuracy and sculpt quality.

PBT — Denser, heavier plastic, resists shine, more matte texture. Legends are usually dye-sublimated into the material — extremely durable. Sound: deeper, thockier. The community has largely shifted to PBT for daily drivers. Keychron, Akko, and most modern budget sets are PBT.

GMK is a German manufacturer producing double-shot ABS keycaps to extremely tight tolerances using tooling originally from Cherry. Known for near-perfect sculpt consistency, Pantone-matched colors, and crisp legends. The cost comes from the production model: GMK sets are almost always GB exclusives with minimum order quantities requiring significant upfront tooling costs ($10,000–30,000+), amortized across buyers. A full GMK base kit runs $140–180 during the GB, with aftermarket prices often doubling. The shining issue (ABS grease shine over time) is GMK's main weakness. Alternatives: ePBT, CRP, or EnjoyPBT for daily drivers who prioritize durability over color accuracy.

Hotswap means the PCB has sockets (typically Kailh or Mill-Max) that let you insert and remove switches without soldering. Pull the switch out with a switch puller, push a new one in — takes about 3 seconds per key. Beginners should almost always choose hotswap. It lets you try different switches without buying a new keyboard or learning to solder. Even experienced builders often prefer hotswap for daily drivers. Popular hotswap boards: Keychron V-series, Keychron C3 Pro, Glorious GMMK2, Drop CTRL, KBD67 Lite.

In a gasket-mount design, the PCB+plate assembly rests on soft silicone or rubber gaskets rather than screwing directly to the case. This creates a "float" — the typing surface has slight give when you press keys, like a trampoline. Benefits: more comfortable for long sessions (less strain), better sound profile (gaskets absorb vibration and reduce pinging), and the signature bouncy feel enthusiasts love. Alternative mounts: top mount (plate screws to top case — firm, precise), tray mount (PCB screws to bottom case — stiff, hollow sound). Gasket mount has become the community standard for enthusiast builds.

The plate holds switches in place and significantly affects flex, sound, and feel: PC plates pair well with gasket mounts for a soft, deep-sounding build. Aluminum is preferred for a firmer, more precise typing feel.

QMK (Quantum Mechanical Keyboard) is open-source firmware that runs on most enthusiast keyboards. It lets you customize every key: remap any key, create multiple layers (like a Fn layer), set up tap-dance (tap once for one key, tap twice for another), configure macros, set combos, adjust RGB animations, and much more. QMK is configured by editing a keymap.c file and flashing to your keyboard via QMK Toolbox. It's free, runs on hundreds of keyboards, and has a massive community. If you're not comfortable editing code, start with VIA — it provides a visual interface for most QMK features without touching code.

VIA is graphical software (usevia.app) that lets you remap keys and configure layers in real-time without reflashing firmware. Connect your keyboard via USB and changes take effect instantly — no compile, no flash. VIA works on top of QMK: the keyboard runs QMK firmware underneath, but the VIA-enabled firmware accepts live remapping commands. Most modern enthusiast keyboards ship with VIA-compatible firmware or have it available for download. If you just want to swap Caps Lock to Control or add a custom layer, VIA is the tool. QMK gives deeper control (conditional behavior, complex macros) but requires more setup.

A layer is an alternate keymap that activates when you hold or toggle a specific key — like the Fn key on a laptop that makes F-row keys behave as media controls. With QMK/VIA, you can define as many layers as you want. A common 65% setup: Layer 0 is your standard layout, Layer 1 (activated by holding the lower-right key) turns the arrow cluster into function keys and adds Home/End/PgUp/PgDn on the right side. Layers make smaller layouts (40%, 60%) practical despite fewer physical keys — every key can serve multiple functions.

"Thock" is the community term for a deep, muted, satisfying keystroke sound — the opposite of thin, high-pitched clack. Achieving it typically requires several factors working together: a gasket-mount case (adds flex, dampens highs), a polycarbonate or FR4 plate (softer than aluminum), lubed linear or silent tactile switches, thick PBT keycaps (MT3 or SA profile), foam inside the case and between the PCB and plate, and a thick desk mat. The tape mod is a free first step. You don't need everything at once — start with lubed switches and good keycaps, then add mods as you identify what's affecting your sound.

The tape mod involves applying 2–3 layers of masking tape or painter's tape to the back of the PCB. The tape adds a slight damping layer that reduces pinging and hollowness, producing a slightly deeper, more muted sound. Costs nothing if you have tape at home, takes 5 minutes, fully reversible. Most effective on tray-mount boards (which tend to sound hollow); less impactful on well-dampened gasket-mount boards. It won't transform a bad board into a great one, but it's a free, harmless improvement on almost any board.

The tempest mod involves cutting polyethylene foam to fit inside the keyboard case bottom, between the case and PCB. PE foam is dense and adds significant dampening, changing the sound from hollow/clacky to fuller and deeper. It's more aggressive than the tape mod and requires cutting around PCB components. Use 0.5–1mm PE foam (craft or packing foam works). Don't cover USB ports, screw holes, or components. Some people combine tape mod + PE foam for maximum dampening. Tradeoff: can make boards sound muffled if overdone — try one layer before doubling up.

Spring ping is a metallic ringing noise from switch springs vibrating during keystrokes — most common with unlubed springs and high-pitched linear switches. The fix is spring lubing with Krytox GPL 105 oil. Fastest method: bag lubing — put springs in a ziplock, add a tiny amount of 105 oil, seal and shake 30 seconds until evenly coated. Or use Sprit "slow" springs, which are pre-lubed and have slower rebound speed (pings less by design). If you'd rather not lube, heavier springs (70g+) also ping less than light springs due to lower resonance frequency.

Under $100, the top picks in 2026 are the Keychron C3 Pro ($35) — hotswap, south-facing RGB, solid tray mount — and the Keychron V1 ($90) — gasket mount, QMK/VIA, hotswap, optional knob. The GMMK2 65% ($90) is strong for its form factor. For pure budget, the Royal Kludge RK68 (~$50) punches above its weight as a wireless 65%. Avoid boards with non-standard bottom rows (limits keycap options) and prefer QMK/VIA support even at this price. See our detailed Under $100 guide.

The 65% layout is the most recommended starting point. It keeps the arrow keys and a small nav cluster (Delete, Home, End, PgUp, PgDn) while dropping the numpad and F-row. This covers 90% of daily use cases while saving significant desk space. The 75% adds the full F-row — great if you use function keys regularly. Full-size and TKL are good if you frequently need a numpad. Avoid 60% and 40% as your first board — you'll spend too much time learning workarounds instead of enjoying the hobby. Use the Keyboard Finder Quiz for a personalized recommendation.

A complete beginner build with good quality across all components: Use the Build Cost Estimator to plan your specific build.

For keyboards and switches, reliable US vendors: Keychron.com (best value boards), Novelkeys.com (wide switch selection, great service), Cannonkeys.com (enthusiast boards), KBDFans (good prices, 2–3 week shipping from China), Drop.com (frequent sales). Amazon is convenient for Keychron and Glorious. For keycaps: KBDFans, MaxKeys, AliExpress (budget PBT). For group buy items, always buy through the regional proxy for your area — check the Group Buy Tracker. Always verify stock in our Stock Tracker before clicking through to a vendor.

No. KeebTracker is independently operated by Berean Defense L.L.C. with no affiliate relationships, paid placements, sponsored rankings, or commercial agreements with any tracked vendor or manufacturer. All data and rankings are determined solely by community interest and factual availability. We display Google AdSense ads to fund operations — served by Google's network, not controlled by us. We may add clearly-disclosed affiliate links in the future, but our data and rankings will always be independent of commercial relationships.

Please contact us with the switch name, the incorrect spec, and the correct value with a source — manufacturer spec sheet, vendor listing, or Theremingoat's switch database. We aim to fix confirmed errors within 24 hours. Occasionally specs differ between production runs (especially spring weights) — if you notice a production-run discrepancy, note which run or purchase date your unit is from.

r/MechanicalKeyboards (1M+ members, great for questions and showcases), r/mechmarket (buying/selling used gear — great for trying things affordably), and GeekHack (the primary home for group buy threads and ICs). For real-time chat, various vendor and designer Discords are active. For reviews and education: Theremingoat (switch database), Alexotos (YouTube — sound tests and mods), and TaeKeyboards (YouTube — reviews) are the community's most trusted voices. Start with r/MechanicalKeyboards — the weekly help thread is welcoming to newcomers.

Essential vocab for the community:

• Keeb — keyboard (affectionate slang)
• GB / IC — Group Buy / Interest Check
• GMK — premium German keycap manufacturer
• PBT / ABS — keycap plastics (PBT preferred for durability)
• Hotswap — swap switches without soldering
• QMK / VIA — firmware / remapping software
• WKL — Winkeyless (no Windows key)
• Thock — deep, satisfying keystroke sound
• Clack — sharper, higher-pitched keystroke sound
• Southpaw — numpad on the left instead of right
• Alice layout — ergonomic split layout with a stagger between halves
• Proxy — regional vendor handling local GB distribution
• Endgame — your hypothetically perfect final keyboard (rarely actually final)